Despite the offputting playground menstrual moniker, On the Bab can do no wrong in my eyes. An early importer of the korean craze for "Chimaek", the Korean portmanteau for chicken and beer, it offers hot globules of fried chicken in thick spicy sauces alongside bazookas of draft beer.
In the last 2 decades Seoul has witnessed an explosion of chimaek joints, even as a form of retirement planning for salarymen laid off from their once-cosy corporate jobs. The proliferation has even prompted some intervention from the authorities, keen to prick the fried chicken bubble blamed for a slew of bankruptcies and even some suicides. It's a relatively recent trend that took off during the 2002 football World Cup, and chicken shops create outlandish offerings and scorching sauces to differentiate themselves.
On the Bab offers chicken slathered in 2 sauces, of which the "sweet spicy" has stolen my heart. It's not big or clever, but has a cripplingly delicious sweet piquant, packed with gojujang and sugar. My local St Paul's outpost servicing the city lunchtime crowd can sort you out. A pot of vinegary seaweed salad, bitey like a ruthlessly al dente spaghetti, provides the perfect counterpoint to the tangy chicken.